Banarasi sarees are renowned for their luxurious textures, intricate designs, and unparalleled craftsmanship. For centuries, these sarees have symbolized elegance, tradition, and cultural heritage. However, over time, some of the exquisite weaving techniques that once adorned these sarees have faded away, forgotten in the rush for modern production methods and quicker turnarounds. In this blog post, we’ll explore some of the rare and extinct techniques in Banarasi saree making, giving a glimpse into the rich history that remains hidden beneath the surface.
The Art of Handloom Weaving: A Decline in Traditional Techniques
Banarasi sarees, traditionally made on handlooms, were the epitome of craftsmanship and patience. Master weavers spent months perfecting a single saree, employing specialized techniques that are now rare or extinct. The advent of power looms, along with the demand for mass-produced and affordable sarees, has unfortunately pushed some of these age-old weaving methods to the brink of extinction.
Let’s dive into a few of the techniques that have either disappeared or are on the verge of being lost:
1. Tanchoi Weave
Tanchoi weaving is a technique that once added charm to Banarasi sarees through its complex patterns. Originating from China and adopted in Banaras, this weaving style involves a single or double warp with two to five different-coloured weft threads. The patterns created often depict elaborate floral or paisley designs with a satin finish.
Although Tanchoi sarees were in high demand during the 19th and early 20th centuries, the laborious process involved in weaving made them unviable for mass production. Today, only a few weavers continue to preserve this nearly extinct craft, making Tanchoi Banarasi sarees a rare and valuable find.
2. Kadiyal Brocade Weaving
Kadiyal is a weaving technique where different colours are used in the warp and weft to create contrasting borders and pallu designs on the saree. In this method, the border of the saree is woven separately and later attached to the body. The time-consuming and intricate nature of Kadiyal weaving led to its decline, as it could not compete with faster and cheaper production methods.
Kadiyal brocade sarees were highly sought after for their strikingly beautiful borders and designs, but now, very few artisans continue to practice this meticulous craft, which makes authentic Kadiyal sarees almost extinct.
3. Gyasar Weaving
Gyasar is a lesser-known but fascinating technique of Banarasi saree weaving that draws inspiration from Tibetan culture. The technique involves the use of heavy silk and opulent gold and silver zari threads to create intricate patterns of dragons, lotus flowers, and Buddhist symbols. These sarees were primarily woven for religious purposes and royal use.
However, with the shift in demand toward more commercial and contemporary designs, the Gyasar weaving technique has become nearly extinct. Very few weavers possess the knowledge or skill to execute this traditional style today.
4. Jamdani Banarasi Weaving
The Jamdani technique, originally from Bengal, was once incorporated into Banarasi sarees to create rich, geometric motifs and patterns. The technique involves the painstaking addition of supplementary weft threads to form intricate designs on the loom.
Because of the amount of time and skill required to produce Jamdani Banarasi sarees, it has become extremely rare. Today, only a few weavers specialize in this method, making genuine Jamdani Banarasi sarees highly valuable and difficult to find.
5. Kinkhwab Weaving
Kinkhwab is perhaps the most luxurious and ornate of all Banarasi weaving techniques. Often referred to as the “fabric of dreams,” this method involves heavy zari work to create densely woven patterns that almost cover the entire surface of the saree. Kinkhwab sarees were a favourite among royals due to their opulence and grandeur.
Sadly, Kinkhwab weaving is now on the verge of extinction, as modern consumers shy away from the heavy weight and high cost associated with these sarees. Few weavers today possess the skills to recreate this once-revered technique.
The Need to Preserve Banarasi Weaving Traditions
The disappearing techniques in Banarasi saree-making signify a cultural loss that extends beyond the fabric itself. The intricate methods passed down through generations, are at risk of fading into obscurity as younger artisans are either not trained in them or prefer quicker methods for economic viability.
While some of these techniques are now only found in museums or private collections, there is still hope. Organizations and governments are recognizing the need to revive these traditional crafts and provide support to weavers who wish to continue these ancient practices. Fashion designers are also playing a crucial role by incorporating these rare techniques into their collections, offering a new lease on life for these forgotten weaves.
Conclusion
The rare and extinct techniques of Banarasi saree offer a glimpse into the unparalleled craftsmanship that once flourished in India. While mass production and power looms have simplified the process, they have also contributed to the disappearance of these traditional methods. The survival of these forgotten weaves now rests in the hands of a few dedicated weavers and enthusiasts who are striving to keep the art alive for future generations.
